Help me fix it
Diagnostic pathways that walk through a symptom step by step, from most likely cause to least likely, until you’re running again.
Not Sure Where to Start?
If your Mixmate is behaving erratically, throwing random errors, or won’t stop blinking — and you’re not sure which component is actually at fault — start here. Most problems that don’t obviously point at one component trace back to power before anything else.
Already have a specific error on your screen or a blink pattern on the Power Module? Skip straight to Tablet Error Codes or Blink Codes instead — come back here only if you’re not sure where to start.
Step 1: Check Your Power First
Voltage problems cause more strange behavior than anything else on the system, so rule this out before looking anywhere else.
- What’s a good battery? A fully charged battery reads 12.7 Volts. Anything above 12.5V should be sufficient. A new battery isn’t necessarily a good one — a new battery can still have bad cells that make it useless.
- What’s a dead battery? 11.7 Volts or below.
- Where to measure: The most accurate reading is directly at the power and ground terminals ON the Mixmate itself — not at the battery or power source. Voltage is lost along the way, especially over long wire runs.
- What size battery? Use a Group 31 battery with at least 960 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) — see Wiring Best Practices for the full power setup.
- Don’t use a deep-cycle battery. A deep-cycle battery is built for low, steady current draw over a long time. Mixmate does the opposite: it pulls high current in short bursts, closer to starting an engine, repeated many times throughout a mix as valves open and close. A deep-cycle battery typically can’t support that kind of load without the electronics browning out and resetting — which is exactly the kind of “ghost” oddity described in Step 2 below.
Automatic shutdown: Mixmate applies an emergency shutdown at 11.0 volts or below for more than 1/4 second. It cycles power, waits 30 seconds to let all valves close, then shuts off and leaves a 1 Blink Error Code until the Battery Disconnect switch is toggled. See Blink Code - 1 Blink.
For the full physical check — battery charge/capacity, connections, fuses, and Power Module voltage — see Power Check.
Step 2: Getting Random Errors or Unexpected Behavior?
If you’re seeing “ghost” errors, sensors dropping out, or erratic behavior with no clear cause, the culprit is almost always voltage drop under load — not a dead battery. A component far from the battery can glitch even when the battery itself reads fine at rest. See Power Check (Step 2: Check Voltage Under Load) for the full explanation and how to diagnose and fix it.
Step 3: Light Won’t Stop Blinking?
If power checks out but a light keeps blinking and won’t stop, the most likely cause is the CAN bus terminators — see CAN Bus Resistance Check for the full testing procedure.
Once the terminators and wiring check out, match the number of blinks you’re seeing against the Quick Reference: Power Module Blink Codes to identify the specific fault.
Know Which Component Is Having the Problem?
Power and CAN bus both check out, and nothing above matches what you’re seeing? The problem is likely isolated to one component — jump straight to the diagnostic pathway for that part of the system: