ARAG CAN-Bus Valve
The 853 Series valves use the SAE J1939 protocol to communicate directly with the Mixmate network. Unlike standard valves, these provide internal diagnostics and precise position sensing.
For the full official installation, use, and maintenance manual, see the ARAG 853 Series CAN-Bus Valve Manual (PDF).
Wiring & Specifications
1. Visual Diagnostics (The LED Ring)
Section titled “1. Visual Diagnostics (The LED Ring)”The top of the valve features a multi-color LED indicator that provides immediate feedback on the valve's status:
| LED Color/Pattern | Valve Status |
| Off | Not powered. |
| Blinking Green | Waiting to acquire a CAN-bus address (during the first 10 seconds after power-on). |
| Steady Green | Configured and working — at the requested position. |
| Blinking White | Moving to reach the requested position. |
| Steady Orange | The valve is being turned on. |
| Blinking Orange | The valve firmware is being updated. |
| Steady Red | Hardware problem — see Steady Red LED below. |
| Blinking Red | Error code — count the blinks, then see Diagnostic Blink Codes below. |
2. Wiring & Connection Requirements
Section titled “2. Wiring & Connection Requirements”Use Official Harnesses Only: Wiring to this and every other ARAG component should be done with official Mixmate/ARAG wiring harnesses — not spliced-in or substituted cable. This covers both power and data connections; substituting other cables voids the warranty and isn't supported.
Pinouts:
Pin 1: Ground (Black)
Pin 2: +12V Power (Red)
Pin 3: CAN Low (Green)
Pin 4: CAN High (Yellow)
3. Critical Technical Specs
Section titled “3. Critical Technical Specs”Max Pressure: Ranges from 6 to 16 bar (90 to 230 PSI) depending on the coupling and number of ways — check the valve body or the technical data sheet for your specific model's rating. If a valve has connections with different max pressures, the lowest-rated connection sets the limit for the whole valve.
Operating Temperature: 0°C to +60°C (32°F to +140°F).
Actuation Time: Typically 0.6 to 1.5 seconds depending on the ball size and gear ratio.
Address Limit: Up to 20 valves can be addressed on a single CAN-bus branch.
Maintenance
Winterization: If the machine is stored in freezing temperatures, the valve must be cycled while the system is empty to ensure no liquid is trapped inside the ball.
Cleaning: Clean only with a soft, wet cloth and clean water. Do not use solvents, fuel, or aggressive detergents, and never use a pressure washer on the valve — the official manual prohibits pressurized water jets on it entirely. Run a clean-water cycle through the circuit at the end of each work shift.
Opening the Valve: If you open the valve to inspect the seal or for extraordinary cleaning, you must replace the seal kit for that orifice before closing it back up — reusing the old gasket can reduce sealing on the internal ball and cause leaks.
Reassembly: Make sure the pin and ball are reassembled in the correct position: the marked point on the pivot must line up with the arrow on the position indicator ring. Tighten the reassembly bolts with a torque wrench calibrated to the value on the model's technical data sheet.
Troubleshooting
If your 853 Series valve isn't responding or shows a lit LED, first check whether the LED is off, steady red, or blinking red — each points to a different set of causes.
1. Valve Not Responding at All (LED Off)
Section titled “1. Valve Not Responding at All (LED Off)”No Power Supply: Check the connections and cables; replace the cable if damaged. Contact your nearest Service Center if the problem persists.
Wrong Wiring Harness Connection: Check the connections and cables — confirm you're using the correct, official ARAG/Mixmate harness for this valve.
Faulty Connection to the Control Device: Check the presence and condition of the CAN-bus terminating resistors — see CAN Bus Resistance Check for the full testing procedure.
2. Steady Red LED (Hardware Problem)
Section titled “2. Steady Red LED (Hardware Problem)”A steady (non-blinking) red LED indicates an internal hardware error. This isn't self-diagnosable — contact your nearest Service Center.
3. Diagnostic Blink Codes (Blinking Red LED)
Section titled “3. Diagnostic Blink Codes (Blinking Red LED)”If the Red LED is Blinking, count the number of pulses between pauses to diagnose the specific fault. If two or more alarms are present at once, the code with the fewest blinks takes priority:
| Blinks | Problem | Possible Cause | Solution |
| 2 | No Response | Memory error (factory data, setup data, or totalizers). | Reset to default values and save. |
| 3 | Won't Stop at Preset Point | Calibration has not been performed. | Contact your nearest Service Center. |
| 4 | Valve Works, but Blinks | Too high a temperature has been detected. | Move the valve away from heat sources (engines/exhaust). |
| 5 | Valve Works, but Blinks | Voltage Issue | Check power supply voltage — it may be too high or too low, the battery may be defective, or you may be incorrectly using a 24V system. |
| 6 | Won't Stop at Preset Point | Calibration was not successful. | Contact your nearest Service Center. |
| 7 | Won't Stop at Preset Point | Addressing Error | Check the commands sent by the control device, or repeat the CAN-bus address acquisition procedure if the wrong ID was assigned. |
| 8 | No Response | Problem on the motor control circuit, or a pin/gear motor block. | Restart the valve (power cycle). For a suspected mechanical block, check the coupling between the plug and the drain connection. Contact your nearest Service Center if it persists. |
| 9 | No Response | Power supply voltage too low, or a broken geared motor. | Make sure the harnesses are suitable for the system and check the power supply voltage; replace the geared motor if it's broken. |
4. Voltage Faults
Section titled “4. Voltage Faults”If the valve behaves sluggishly or triggers Blink Code 5 or Blink Code 9, see Power Check for the full procedure. In particular:
Harness Integrity: Confirm you're using the correct official harness and that it's suitable for the run distance. Voltage drop over long, thin wires is a common cause of motor control failures — this valve can be far enough from the Power Module that it reads fine there but still sags under load at the valve itself.
5. Manual Override (Removing the Motor)
Section titled “5. Manual Override (Removing the Motor)”Use this procedure to verify the valve's actual position, to close a valve that won't respond, or to check for a stuck-open/stuck-closed condition without relying on the tablet. This is the same procedure for every ARAG 853 Series valve, indicated or non-indicated:
Disconnect power to the actuator.
Use a 5mm Allen wrench to remove the bolt on the clamshell clamp holding the motor to the valve body, then lift the motor off.
With the motor removed, use a 3/8" square drive on the exposed valve stem to turn the ball by hand.
[!IMPORTANT]
Look for the Paint Mark: These valves can rotate infinitely (360°) and do not have "hard stops." There is a paint mark on the stem indicating valve position — watch it closely while turning to confirm you've landed on "Open" or "Closed."
Watch for continuous rotation: If the motor kept spinning instead of stopping at a position before you removed it, that's a failure symptom.
Note: Checking position this way is mainly needed on non-indicated motors. Indicated motors have their own diagnostic lights, so you can normally tell the valve's position without removing anything — but the same removal procedure still applies any time you need to manually turn the valve.
Best practice: Return the valve to the fully Closed position when you're done, unless your specific troubleshooting guide directs otherwise. Once the motor is removed there is no electronic failsafe to stop the flow of chemical if a hose leaks or a tank overflows, so never leave a valve manually open and unattended.